By Elisa Anzolin and Mimosa Spencer
PARIS (Reuters) – Gucci creative director Sabato De Sarno showed a lineup of ornately decorated wool coats on the catwalk in Milan on Friday, building on his approach for reigniting Kering’s prized label with sensual, pared-back styles.
Models marched down a slightly elevated runway in a sparse, window-lined space parading soft wool coats, long bustier dresses and trim suit jackets cinched with thin belts.
Adding to the chunky loafers, mini-shorts and glossy Jackie handbags that have become label signatures under the new designer’s direction were thigh-high riding boots, small purses shaped like half moons, towering platform heels and delicate, see-through dresses with lace.
De Sarno’s designs, which have begun trickling into stores, are key to reigniting sales at Gucci, Kering’s largest brand, accounting for half of the French luxury group’s sales and over two thirds of its profit.
The French group recently overhauled top management, sending longtime executive Jean-Francois Palus to Italy to manage the label as it pushes Gucci upmarket.
This consists of emphasising more classic styles and leather goods in a bid to regain traction after losing ground to rivals like LVMH’s Dior and Louis Vuitton.
Stores will not be fully stocked with De Sarno’s styles until later in the year – perhaps by June – but early signs are “very encouraging”, Kering deputy CEO Francesca Bellettini said earlier this month.
The group cautioned that margins will be lower this year as it continues to invest in Gucci.
UBS analysts have flagged early signs of “improving brand heat”, noting Gucci is “in a much better place than before,” earlier this month.
(Reporting by Elisa Anzoli and Mimosa Spencer; editing by Mark Heinrich)
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